Yarn Count

· Yarn count is a numerical value which expresses the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn.

· The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear density or count.

“Count is a number indicating the mass per unit length or the length per mass unit of a yarn”

Types of Yarn Counting System

1. Direct system

2. Indirect system

1. Direct system:

· the weight of yarn per unit length.

· the length of yarn fixed, and the weight of yarn varies according to its fineness.

· Heavier yarn has greater weight per unit length.

Type of Direct yarn count system:

· Denier system: - Weight in grams of yarn of 9000-meter length

· Tex System: - Weight in grams of yarn of 1000 meter length, and it is called as universal yarn numbering system

· Deci Tex System: - Weight in grams of yarn of 10000 meter length

2. Indirect system:

· the length of yarn per unit weight,

· the weight of yarn fixed, and the length of yarn varies according to its fineness.

· Less heavy yarn has greater length per unit weight.

· If increase Count then decrease Dia.

Type of Indirect yarn count system:

1. New English count (Ne): -

· mainly used for cotton count.

· Also known as British count or English count.

· The number of hanks each of 840 yards weighing in one pound of the yarn. (1 pound = 453.59gram)

2. New Metric count (Nm):

· number of hank’s each of 1000 m weighing in 1 kg.

Knowledge of yarn count is important for the following purposes:

1. To specify or identify a yarn.

2. To place order for process of yarn from spinning department,
stores, etc.

3. To buy or sell yarn, i.e., trading of yarn.

4. To utilize yarns during knitting, weaving and other processes according to requirement.

5. To find out the weight of the product at any process.

6. To set machine speed and other settings.

EPI/PPI

· EPI - ENDS PER INCH or WARP YARN PER INCH

· PPI - PICK PER INCH or WEFT YARN PER INCH

There are nine warps, i.e., the EPI is nine, and eight wefts; therefore, the PPI is 8.

How can identify the warp and weft of FABRIC

· Warp yarns are more stronger than weft yarns in power.

· Fabric selvage is always placed on warp side direction.

· It is more difficult to remove the warp yarn from the fabric than the weft yarn.

GSM

· Grams per Square Meter

· GSM is important to determining the quality and durability of a fabric.

· A higher GSM fabric will be more expensive than a lower GSM.

How to Calculate Fabric GSM by GSM Cutter:

· Cut the fabric with the GSM cutter (gram per square inch).

· Weight the fabric with the electric balance.

· The cut sample is 100 sq. cm. The weight of the cut sample is multiplied by 100.

· The result is the GSM of that particular fabric.

· For accuracy test with multiple (e.g. 5 samples) samples and calculate average GSM.

How to Calculate Fabric GSM by CALCULATION:

· GSM = Weight 10,000 / (Length Width)